Antigua
After my week of self-care at Lake Atitlan, I headed to Antigua for three days. I had been loosely looking for a place to study Spanish in the future, and I had read that Guatemala was a good place to learn. Guatemalan Spanish is said to be clearer and easier to understand than some of the other Spanish speaking countries. I had also read that Antigua was one of the safer places in Guatemala for tourists, and therefore had a substantial expat population. So I decided to get a feel for the city and see if it would be a place where I’d want to return to spend more time in the future.
I took a shuttle from the lake to Antigua, and it was a 2 ½ hour drive of windy switchback roads. I get carsick easily, so it was a pretty miserable couple of hours. Eventually I arrived in Antigua and checked into my hostel. I learned during that stay that I will not be staying at hostels again. I’m not a hostel person to begin with – I like my privacy and quiet. But this one had a single room with a private bathroom, so I thought I’d give it a shot. Firstly, the room was hardly big enough to fit the bed. I could barely walk around the bed. Secondly, the walls were paper thin and there was a bar/restaurant not far from my room. The younger kids stayed up partying until 4am every night, so I barely got any sleep.
Antigua, however, is a super sweet little city and I’m so glad I had the opportunity to visit. I was there during the rainy season, so everything was green and luckily, there wasn’t a lot of rain during my visit. The climate was pleasant – 70’s during the day, 60’s at night with light humidity. The buildings are colorful with a colonial vibe and the streets are made of cobblestone. There are several beautiful cathedrals with intricate designs both inside and out. The town is also full of ruins. The Spanish word “antigua” translates to “ancient” in English. At the city center there is a beautiful plaza with fountains and gardens called Plaza Mayor, surrounded by a large cathedral, an art museum, and many cafés and shops. About a 30-minute walk from the city center, there is an overlook point called Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). The well-maintained path to the top of the hill is made of concrete steps that are surrounded by tall wispy trees. Once you arrive at the top, you are greeted by breathtaking views of the city, as well as the two volcanoes that surround Antigua – Fuego (the active one), and Agua (the inactive one).
One of the friends I made at Lake Atitlan was also in Antigua while I was there, so we met up for a couple of meals and drinks. At the time, I was eating a mostly vegan diet, and there were several vegan restaurants with delicious food. The prices were a bit higher than at the lake, likely because it is more of a tourist destination. But I was impressed with the food quality and cleanliness of the restaurants. The restaurants were also quite beautiful, most with open air courtyards with beautiful gardens, and many with terraces with beautiful views of Fuego and Agua.
During my last day in Antigua, I booked a free walking tour to get a better feel for the city. I ended up being the only person on the tour along with my guide, Harold. Harold and I became instant friends. We walked around for three hours, and he showed me ruins, cathedrals, and other beautiful landmarks while explaining their history and significance. His love and passion for his home was palpable. After the tour, Harold invited me out for a drink at a local dive bar. I accepted the invitation, and we had a great time. The locals were inviting and welcoming. I couldn’t wait to return to Antigua.
